Eureka, I have found it. My quest for the perfect supplì in Rome has ended. The crunchiest, tastiest supplì have been served in a stylish but relaxed setting just around the corner from Campo dei Fiori for the last five years and who knew? Well, the customers that have helped to make Supplizio a success I guess, but not me. Until now.
I was talking about the ghetto to a Roman friend, born and bred, and he said, ‘You must try crostata ricotta e visciole. They only make it in one bakery in the ghetto. It’s incredible.’ A little later, I asked him to show me where this bakery was. It’s on the corner of Via del Portico d’Ottavia and has no sign. It’s official name is Boccione.
And so, one Sunday morning—the ghetto being the Jewish quarter of Rome things are closed on Saturdays but open on Sundays—I paid a visit to Boccione and tried my first slice of the best cheesecake I’ve ever tasted.
Today, Rome’s Jewish quarter is one of the more colourful spots in the city. Walk down the Via del Portico d’Octavia at night, and you’ll witness the waiters competing with each other to attract clients into their restaurant because it’s the oldest, the most authentic, the only one where the chef is a real Roman Jew, the one run by a nonna or the only one that Anthony Bourdain ate at. The atmosphere and the food are unlike those anywhere else in the city. The truth is that all the restaurants offering Cucina Giudaico Romanesca (Roman Jewish Cuisine) are pretty good. It’s why the area is popular with locals, Romans, and tourists.
Food Box is a 25-square-metre stand serving Roman street food and specialities from other regions of Italy. Located in the Mercato di Testaccio in the south of the city, it’s a great place to try out street food specialities. The menu changes regularly depending on availability but some things, such as supplì,are always on the menu.
The problem with choosing a restaurant in Rome is that you are spoiled for choice. Much like any European capital you can choose from a wide variety of cuisines, including some of the best Asian restaurants in Italy, but from time to time only authentic Roman food will do.
Today, 29th June is the feast day of Santi Pietro e Paolo, the patron saints of Rome. Therefore, in the city, it’s a Roman holiday and one that the locals take seriously. Everyone gets the day off to roam the city and eat street food, and the celebrations culminate in a huge firework display, the girandola in Piazza del Popolo.
