In Italy, even the flavours of gelato are custom to the whims of fashion. There are a couple of flavours, very common when I was a child in the 1980s, which you very rarely find nowadays, but which for me say still say Italian summer.
Centuries ago, the Sicilians developed a way of packaging sunshine and transporting it to the colder north of Italy. They created burnished yellow balls, pregnant with the zest of the south and as sharp as the rays of the midday sun. I’m talking, of course, about lemons.