An early morning trip to the Rialto fish market in Venice is always a treat. This morning, after coffee and a croissant at my favourite coffee bar in Venice, Torrefazione Cannaregio, I hopped across the Grand Canal at the Santa Sofia, traghetto (a traditional gondola ferryboat) and on to the fish market. I was in search of mazzancolle a type of king prawn in order to make one of the most Venetian of dishes, mazzancolle in saor.
La dotta, la rossa, la grassa. These are the nicknames given to the city of Bologna by Italians. La dotta (the educated) because it boasts one of the oldest and most prestigious universities in the world. La rossa (the red) because of its distinctive red-brick architecture. And la grassa (the fat)? Because of its amazing food of course!
Well, it’s almost Easter and time to break free of the restrictions of Lent and celebrate with all the wonderful Easter food we’ve been dreaming of. Here in the Tuscan Valtiberina, Easter is of particular importance, especially in the town of Sansepolcro, whose name means Holy Sepulchre, referring to the tomb of Christ. In fact there are two important cultural items in the town connecting it with Easter. The first is 16th century model of the tomb of Christ in the Oratorio della Compagnia del Crocifisso. The second, and better known, is the painting of the Resurrection by Piero della Francesca which is housed in the Museo Civico.
Italy being Italy, and the cuisine being regional, risotto is only found in the traditional cuisine of the areas where rice is grown. This pretty much limits it to the regions of Piemonte, Lombardia, Emilia-Romagna, and the Veneto, where it’s cooked with much regional difference.
Risotto is a sublime dish when cooked correctly and a horror when not. Despite its simplicity, it’s an easy dish to get wrong and every Italian knows this. For example, one of my Venetian friends has mother who was born and raised in Sicily. Although she has lived in Venice for thirty years, she is not a native to the north, unlike risotto. For this reason, she will not cook risotto if any of her Venetian friends are coming to dinner, just in case she gets it wrong. After all, they have been cooking it all their lives and were taught to make it by their nonnas: she’s only been making it for thirty years.
This recipe is from Veneto.
As promised in the last post, here is a recipe for azime dolci, the Venetian jewish cookies I tried in the ghetto at the weekend. Pane azzimo, is the Italian for unleavened bread and these are called azime because they too are unleavened. And like pane azzimo, they are traditionally eaten at passover time when it’s forbidden to eat yeast.
This recipe is from Veneto.
This recipe complements my previous post on Radicchio tardivo di Treviso. It’s a very common way of cooking it in Italy. The risotto takes on a lovely pinkish red colour thanks to the radicchio leaves and the gorgonzola adds a little depth of creamy flavour at the end.